Javelins

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Javelins

Postby Sir Gideon » Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:15 am

While reading the "how to" threads I decided it would fun to build a javelin. Then I started trying to figure out how I was going to build it. So my questions are:
How do you (would you) build a javelin and what are the advantages/disadvantages of that construction method?
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Chancellor of Oathbreaker Bog
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Re: Javelins

Postby SirCowdog » Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:41 am

One of the biggest mistakes people make when building a javelin is to make it too short. They're trying to make some kind of melee-range dart or something. In order to fly well over any kind of distance the javelin needs to have at least 4-5 feet or so.

And for amtgard purposes I have yet to see anything better than those stupid fins on the back. I say stupid because you can't really make a javelin amtgard legal and have it fly very well. Its sort of the same problem faced with Amtgard arrows on a larger scale.
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Re: Javelins

Postby Tseng » Tue Mar 09, 2010 1:25 am

I'm about to say the exact opisite of Cowdoy. The javelins I make are under 4ft, have the fins, and when thrown correctly fly strait 30'+. My fins are wide enough to be legal and made of a soft cushon foam.

I use a 28" length of PVC. I tape an inch of foam to both ends that is the same width as the pipe. I cover the entire lenght with .5" pipe insulation foam. I then wrap that length with a sheet of cf1240 (uhaul foam). This makes my base. I then wrap a "can" at the tip, 6" and roll on the foam until it is over 2.5" wide (so when you tape it down it doesn't gon under). I add 2" of the cushion foam to the tip, to soften the impact. I finish by cutting fins out of the cuson foam and taping them to back of the base. I then cover all but the tip in duct tape (not spril, just stripped on). Make a good cover for the head and they fly well and make good blockers.
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Re: Javelins

Postby Torin MacGregor » Mon Mar 22, 2010 7:45 am

I have seen a few javelins with streamers instead of fins. While I haven't done any personal comparative testing, the theory seems sound. The fletching of arrows are to provide just enough drag to stabilize the arrow while it moves forward. The fins are an attempt to do the same thing. A Streamer, or set of streamers might work better depending on the fabric and size.
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Re: Javelins

Postby Lord Blapt » Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:29 pm

Ive made javalins of both the "finned" and unfinned variety. Short ones do best with fins, long ones seem to be beter without them, but the best fins Ive seen on javalins so far were on Sir Galrogs javalins. These Javalins were about 5' long, but instead of regular fins they had spiral shaped tails. Sort of like those "spiral shaped foot balls" that nerf makes.
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Re: Javelins

Postby JPColbert » Thu Jul 08, 2010 12:45 am

I searched the internet for a construction guide for a javelin, and was unable to find one, so I decided I would make one. I wrote down the steps I took to make my javelins. Since I was unable to find much on construction guidelines for javelins, I made them to the best of my knowledge of what is Amtgard legal. Before adding photos and turning it over to someone to turn into a pdf file, I figured I would send it around and get feedback on it from you guys. How does it look? How is the wording? Any suggestions or changes on the construction? Any changes that need to be made to make it Amtgard legal?
Sincerely,
Jean-Pierre Colbert
Regent for the Shire of Ruatha

Amtgard Javelin Construction Guide:

Supplies Needed to make six 3+ foot Amtgard Javelins:
6 = 1/2“ x 3‘ pvc pipe
12 = 1/2“ pvc pipe caps
6 = 2.5' x 1“ (5/8“ inner diameter) pipe insulation foam
6 = 6“ x 2.5“ piece of funnoodle
6 = 2“ x 2.5“ piece of funnoodle tapered to 1“ diameter
6 = 1/2“ x 2.5“ closed cell foam discs (ie: blue camp pad)
6 = 1/2“ x 1“ closed cell foam discs (ie: blue camp pad)
12 = 1/2“ x 5.5“ foam flights with 2“ x .25“ flanges on each end
6 = 2“ x 2.5“ open cell foam discs (ie: pillow foam, memory foam)
Pvc pipe cement
Fiber or duct tape
Exacto knife and/or scissors
Marker

Optional:
6 = 1“ x 2.5“ piece of funnoodle tapered to 1“ diameter
3 contrasting colors of above tape (one for shaft, one for flights, and one for head of javelin) or...
2 contrasting colors of above tape (one for shaft, one for flights) and one cloth cover for head of javelin (ie: tube sock, tights, or hand made cloth tube)

Construction Directions:

Step 1: Cut pvc pipe to desired length, usually comes in 10 foot sections, so you can add up to 4 more inches per javelin and still get three javelins out of one stick. Sand or trim off any rough spots on edges of pvc pipe.

Step 2: Spread pvc pipe cement on inner surface of pvc pipe caps, insert pvc pipe into pvc pipe caps. Tap caps on floor or with hammer (lightly) to ensure they are well seated onto pvc pipe. Set aside and let the cement dry as per directions.

Note: When taping foam, make sure not to compress the foam to much. If possible unless stated otherwise, tape lengthwise rather than circumference-wise.

Step 3: Tape the 1/2“ x 2.5“ closed cell foam discs to the end of the 6“ x 2.5“ pieces of funnoodle, using two overlapping and alternating (+ shaped) pieces of tape.

Step 4: Tape the 2“ x 2.5“ open cell foam discs to the end of the 6“ x 2.5“ pieces of funnoodle, over the 1/2“ x 2.5“ closed cell foam discs using two overlapping and alternating (+ shaped) pieces of tape. If using multiple discs, tape each disc independently.

Step 5: Wrap a strip of tape around, circumference-wise, the 6“ x 2.5“ pieces of funnoodle, covering the tail ends of the tape securing the foam discs to it. Wrap another strip of tape around, circumference-wise, the foam discs, so all of the surface of the open cell foam and the edges of the connecting tape are covered.

Optional Step: Tape, both lengthwise and circumference-wise, the 1“ x 2.5“ piece of funnoodle tapered to 1“ diameter to the other end of the 6“ x 2.5“ piece of funnoodle, so the taper is facing the opposite end of the head of the javelin.

Step 6: Cover the flights with tape so the entire surface is covered. Be careful the tape stays flat and does not crease.

Step 7: When the pvc pipe cement has set insert the pvc pipe into the 6“ x 2.5“ pieces of funnoodle, making sure not to push it farther than the end of the 6“ x 2.5“ pieces of funnoodle, causing the foam discs to bulge out.

Step 8: Insert the other end of the pvc pipe into the 2.5' x 1“ (5/8“ inner diameter) pipe insulation foam, remove any excess pipe insulation foam that extends past the end of the pvc pipe.

Step 9: Use strips of tape to close the seam of the 2.5' x 1“ (5/8“ inner diameter) pipe insulation foam, wrapping the tape strips circumference-wise, closely spaced so there are no gaps left in the seam. Add a piece of pipe insulation foam to close any gaps you can not close with the tape (usually caused by the pvc pipe caps).

Step 10: Tape the 1/2“ x 1“ closed cell foam discs to the end of the 2.5' x 1“ (5/8“ inner diameter) pipe insulation foam, using two overlapping and alternating (+ shaped) pieces of tape. Wrap a strip of tape around, circumference-wise, the 2.5' x 1“ (5/8“ inner diameter) pipe insulation foam, covering the tail ends of the tape securing the foam discs to it.

Step 11: Determine where you would like to place the 1/2“ x 5.5“ foam flights, on opposite sides of the shaft from each other, and mark the shaft with the marker where you want them, making sure they are straight along the shaft.

Step 12: Take a strip of tape the same length as the 1/2“ x 5.5“ foam flights, attach it to the lower side of the flight, no higher the the height of the flanges. Fold the tape back, so the non-sticky backs are facing each other and the fletching can be put on the shaft without the tape anchoring it in place until you put it in the spot you want it. Once you have it where you want it, fold the tape down and anchor the flight to the shaft.

Step 13: Fold the flight down so you can attach another strip of tape to the other side of the flight, repeating the process of anchoring the flight on the other side.

Step 14: Repeat Steps 12 and 13, to attach the second flight on the other side of the shaft.

Note: If you so desire, you can use three or four fletches per javelin, but you can get away with only using two.

Step 15: Wrap a strip of tape circumference-wise around the shaft and the flanges of the flights on either end of the flights.

Step 16: Use the shavings from the tapering process of the 2“ x 2.5“ piece of funnoodle tapered to 1“ diameter, to fill the hole in the piece of funnoodle. Attach the 2“ x 2.5“ piece of funnoodle tapered to 1“ diameter so the 1“ taper attaches to the butt end of the javelin, using two overlapping and alternating (+ shaped) pieces of tape. Wrap a strip of tape around, circumference-wise, the 2.5' x 1“ (5/8“ inner diameter) pipe insulation foam, covering the tail ends of the tape securing the 2“ x 2.5“ piece of funnoodle to it.

Step 17: Run four strips of tape lengthwise attaching the head of the javelin to the shaft of the javelin. Wrap a strip of tape around, circumference-wise, the pipe insulation foam, covering the tail ends of the tape securing the javelin head to it. Wrap a strip of tape around, circumference-wise, the javelin head, covering the tail ends of the tape securing it to the shaft

Step 18: Run a strip of of tape lengthwise along the shaft, to cover the foam on the shaft, being careful to ensure the tape stays flat and does not crease. Repeat with two more strips of tape until all the foam surface on the shaft is covered. Wrap a strip of tape around, circumference-wise, each end of the shaft, covering the tail ends of the tape covering the shaft

Step 19: Repeat Step 18 on the head of the javelin, or alternatively cover the head of the javelin with a cloth cover, securing the end with tape.

Step 20: Throw at a willing target to test its efficiency.

Step 21: Practice, Practice, Practice.
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